Vehicle · ignition
The key will not turn. That is not always the ignition.
Four different faults feel identical from the driver's seat, and one of them costs nothing to fix. We find out which one you have before anything gets replaced.
Four things that feel the same
- The steering lock is loaded. The wheel is resting against the lock pin and the cylinder physically cannot rotate. Push the wheel firmly one way while turning the key. This is the most common call we get about a seized ignition and it is not a fault at all.
- The shifter is not fully in park. Most automatics will not release the key, and some will not turn, unless park is properly engaged. Nudge the lever.
- The key is worn. A key cut twenty years ago, copied from a copy, rounded off at the peaks. It still fits the door because the door is more forgiving than the ignition. A key cut to the original code usually solves it outright.
- The ignition lock cylinder is actually failing. Wafers worn, spring broken, something snapped inside. This is the one that needs work.
What we do at the car
We start by testing your key against the lock rather than guessing. If the key is the problem we cut one to code and you are done. If the cylinder is the problem we can usually replace the cylinder and key it to your existing key, so you are not left carrying two different keys for one car.
On a lot of vehicles the ignition cylinder comes out without touching the immobilizer or the steering column electronics. On some it does not, and on a few the job genuinely belongs at a dealer. We will say which one you have and we will say it before we start, not after.
When the key turns and nothing happens
That is a different fault and it is worth separating. If the cylinder rotates normally but the car does nothing, the mechanical lock is fine. You are looking at the ignition switch behind the cylinder, the immobilizer refusing the key's transponder, a battery too dead to crank, or a starter.
The transponder case is the one we handle. If the dash immobilizer light stays on or flashes when you turn the key, the car is reading the chip and rejecting it. That is programming, not a cylinder, and it is usually quick.
The rest is auto electrical work. We will tell you that honestly rather than take the job and charge you for finding out.
Words you will hear
What we need from you
- Photo identification.
- Proof the vehicle is yours: registration, title, insurance in your name.
- The make, model and year, and whether you have any key that still works.
We ask every time. A locksmith who will work on an ignition without checking whose car it is will do the same for the next person, and that next car could be yours.
Questions
Can you fix it at the roadside or does it have to be towed?
Almost always at the car, wherever it is parked. The van carries the cutting and programming equipment, so there is no reason to tow a car for an ignition unless the column itself is damaged.
Will I need a new key afterwards?
Not usually. Where the cylinder is replaced we can often key the new one to your existing key. Where that is not possible we cut and program new keys on the spot.
My key broke off in the ignition.
Do not try to turn the stub. Call. Broken key extraction is a normal job and it goes badly wrong when somebody has already been at it with pliers.
How long does it take?
A worn key is minutes. A cylinder replacement is usually under an hour on most vehicles. We will give you a range on the phone before anyone is dispatched.
Need someone now?
A person answers, at any hour, in English or Spanish. If it is not urgent, we will hold a day and a time for you instead.
Or leave your details and we will call you.